HAGS
July 23, 2021/ Photo: Courtesy of HAGS
Telly Justice and Camille Lindsley dreamt of creating their own inclusive dining community for years — and the turbulence of 2020 galvanized them to make their visions a reality.
The two met in Atlanta while working at the same restaurant, and bonded over their desire to change the many issues plaguing the fine dining industry (among them being misogyny, ageism, queerphobia, and racism). They began executing projects across the country together but always had their sights set on creating a business of their own.
Then the pandemic hit and the two were promptly furloughed from their positions at separate restaurants in NYC.
“We were feeling so vulnerable and desperate,” Justice said. “But time kept moving and those breakdowns eventually transitioned into more earnest planning and brainstorming. Slowly, with our situation remaining stuck and stagnant, we grew kind of emboldened and just said ‘Fuck it. It's never going to be our time, let's just do this now.’”
The pair’s prospective venture HAGS, is an intersectional, Queer-friendly space celebrating great food. The intimate tasting menu restaurant promises to be a radical departure from the typical fine dining experience. With Justice helming the cuisine and Lindsley in charge of beverages, the pair hopes to create a welcoming, approachable, and joyful experience for diners.
“HAGS is going to be tiny. It's 20 seats, maybe a few less. So it's really intimate. Camille and I will be working every day that we're open, so HAGS is almost going to operate like a little dinner party,” Justice explained. “If you come eat dinner with us, you'll literally be eating dinner WITH us. You will meet us. Camille will pour your wine and chat you up. I'll be cooking your food, you'll see me cooking just for you.”
While dreaming up the dishes to be featured, Justice and Lindsley have pulled inspiration from the many Queer potlucks and dinner parties they’d attended in the past, which helped expand their knowledge of food and hospitality. They aim to make a menu filled with food reflective of their experiences that are easy for diners to enjoy. They are also adamant about upholding equitable labor practices and using fair, transparent supply chains to source their ingredients.
“Pretension and intimidation are kind of in the eye of the beholder, so while I try to make the food as easy to love and understand as possible I know there will inevitably be naysayers and critics,” Justice said. “That's ok. We are pushing ourselves to go to a very vulnerable place in building these menus in this space.”
The pair plans to offer a Pay What You Can supper on Sundays prepared by Justice, other staff members, or visiting chefs from other restaurants. They also plan to host parties, pop-ups, and other events to help support the community. In the past several months, they have hosted several successful pop-ups at spaces around the city.
“My worst fear is that when we open, we will only be known as a Queer-owned fine dining establishment when truly we'll only be that for PART of the week,” Justice explained. “As Queer folks, we are never "just one thing," We are everything! We want everything!”
More about the HAGS and its inclusive programming can be found on its website and Instagram account.
